The Dominican Republic is not just Punta Cana. It's an entire country\u2014mountainous, musical, complex\u2014that awaits beyond the fences of the resorts.<\/em><\/p>\n Las Am\u00e9ricas Airport disgorges its passengers into the humid heat of the capital. Most head east to Punta Cana. We're staying.<\/p>\n Santo Domingo is the oldest European city in the Americas. The Zona Colonial is an open-air museum \u2013 the first cathedral, the first hospital, the first university in the New World. The cobblestone streets smell of coffee and frying. The colmados (neighborhood grocery stores) blast bachata at maximum volume. It's noisy, vibrant, captivating.<\/p>\n The Malec\u00f3n at sunset, dominoes on the sidewalks, sancocho in the comedores of the Mercado Modelo\u2014Santo Domingo is a Caribbean city in all its chaotic splendor.<\/p>\n Leaving Santo Domingo to head north is like crossing into another country. The road climbs into the hills, past coffee fields and villages with painted wooden houses. Four hours later, the Saman\u00e1 Peninsula appears\u2014the wild Dominican Republic.<\/p>\n Saman\u00e1 is what the Mexican Yucat\u00e1n was thirty years ago: beaches without hotels, coconut trees without sun loungers, fishing villages that still live off fishing. Playa Rinc\u00f3n is regularly cited as one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean \u2014 and it's almost empty on weekdays.<\/p>\n El Lim\u00f3n, the 40-meter waterfall accessible by horseback or on foot through the jungle. Los Haitises, the national park with karst mogotes, mangroves, and Taino caves. From January to March, humpback whales come to give birth in the bay\u2014one of the best whale-watching spots in the world.<\/p>\n The country's interior is surprising. Cibao is a fertile, green, mountainous valley. Santiago de los Caballeros is the second-largest city\u2014less touristy than Santo Domingo, more authentic.<\/p>\n And then there are the mountains. Pico Duarte rises to 3,098 m \u2013 the highest peak in the Caribbean. The ascent takes 2-3 days from Jarabacoa or Constanza, through pine forests that look nothing like the Caribbean. Constanza, at 1,200 m, produces strawberries and vegetables in a mountain microclimate.<\/p>\n Jarabacoa is the adventure hub: rafting on the Yaque del Norte, canyoning, paragliding. Another side of the Dominican Republic that all-inclusive brochures never show.<\/p>\n The Atlantic coast has its own unique character. Puerto Plata enjoyed its heyday as a tourist destination in the 1980s and 1990s, only to fall into decline when Punta Cana overshadowed it. Today, it\u2019s reinventing itself\u2014with the cable car to Pico Isabel de Torres, the Victorian houses in the city center, and Fort San Felipe.<\/p>\n Cabarete is the kite-surfing capital of the Caribbean. The trade winds blow every afternoon with metronomic regularity. The village lives to the rhythm of kite surfers by day and beach bars by night. Sos\u00faa, just next door, has a fascinating history\u2014a European Jewish community welcomed by Trujillo in 1938, whose descendants still run bakeries and businesses.<\/p>\n It\u2019s impossible to ignore Punta Cana\u201470% tourists go there. The beaches are magnificent. The resorts are comfortable. But the all-inclusive model creates a closed-off bubble: tourists eat, drink, and sleep within the resort grounds; money doesn\u2019t leave the resort; and local communities remain on the sidelines.<\/p>\n Yet, even from Punta Cana, you can break out of the bubble. Visit the fishing villages of Bayahibe, dive on Saona Island without the mass tour operator, and head up to Hig\u00fcey and its spectacular modern basilica.<\/p>\n The southwest is the poorest and wildest region. Lake Enriquillo\u2014the largest lake in the Caribbean, 40 m below sea level\u2014is home to American crocodiles and rhinoceros iguanas. Bah\u00eda de las \u00c1guilas, in the far south, is perhaps the country's most beautiful beach\u20148 km of white sand with no construction whatsoever.<\/p>\n The border with Haiti is palpable\u2014the economic contrast is stark. The border markets of Dajab\u00f3n and Jiman\u00ed are profound experiences, where the two countries merge in a trade of survival.<\/p>\n The Dominican Republic is a country of extreme contrasts\u2014wealth and poverty, paradisiacal beaches and steep mountains, mass tourism and preserved authenticity. All on an island of 48,000 km\u00b2 (the size of Switzerland). The traveler who ventures beyond Punta Cana discovers a country unlike any other in the Caribbean\u2014more complex, more musical, more surprising.<\/p>\n See our Dominican Republic Practical Guide<\/a> and us 7-14 day itineraries<\/a> to plan your trip.<\/em><\/p>\nFirst impression: Santo Domingo<\/h2>\n
The Road North: Saman\u00e1<\/h2>\n
The Cibao: Mountains and Merengue<\/h2>\n
The North Coast: Puerto Plata and Cabarete<\/h2>\n
Punta Cana: The Other Side of the Coin<\/h2>\n
The Southwest: The Forgotten Frontier<\/h2>\n
What the Dominican Republic taught me<\/h2>\n
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