Nicaragua: A Journey to the Land of Volcanoes, the Other Central America

I'm going to tell you something I've never dared to write before. For eight years, I sold Costa Rica with a certain arrogance—the kind people have when they think they know the region. Nicaragua, I just passed by. It was poorer, it was rougher, it was politically unstable. I told myself, «Not for my clients.» And then in 2019, a client told me she absolutely wanted to go there. I reluctantly agreed, went there for reconnaissance three weeks beforehand, and came back with a foolish feeling: we had missed out on the most moving country in Central America.

That's the shame of the profession. We sell security, we avoid «complicated» countries, and we miss out on what is precisely the most precious. Nicaragua is the flip side of well-intentioned tourism. I defend it now as I used to defend Costa Rica.

Three Nicaraguas that no one mixes

The country is large. That's the first thing that struck me when I arrived in Managua: 130,000 km², a quarter of the size of France, but distances that are quickly covered because the main roads are surprisingly well-made. And above all, three territories that have nothing to do with each other.

First, the colonial Pacific, which everyone knows at least by name. Granada On the one hand, founded in 1524—it's one of the oldest cities on the American continent—with its ochre, yellow, and sienna facades, its horse-drawn carriages gliding over the cobblestones at 6 p.m. as the light fades. And Lion from the other, an hour and a half north, more academic, more political, more chaotic. Between the two, the Masaya Volcano — one of the very rare craters in the world where you see a lake of incandescent lava bubbling one hundred meters below your feet. The first time I saw it, in March 2020, I stood for forty minutes without speaking. The sound of the magma is something you don't forget.

Then there is Ometepe Island. It alone is worth a trip. In the middle of Lake Nicaragua, two volcanoes rise out of the water, forming the island in the shape of a figure eight—Concepción to the north (1,610 m, still active), Maderas to the south (dormant). It's my favorite spot in the country. I've stayed there three times at the same eco-lodge—Totoco, on the slopes of Maderas—and each time I've had the feeling of touching something different. The locals greet you on foot or on horseback. No traffic lights. In the morning, we have breakfast facing the volcano, and in the evening, we hear howler monkeys in the forest. Three days minimum on Ometepe—anyone who goes for just one night hasn't understood anything.

And finally, the Caribbean. Big Corn and Little Corn, two islands 80 km offshore. No paved roads, no cars, descendants of Jamaican slaves who speak a beautiful Creole. This is the other end of Nicaragua, the one you don't suspect. One of my best memories in fifteen years is Little Corn in 2022, six days without Wi-Fi, grilled fish for breakfast caught by the neighbor. I came back ten pounds lighter.

Why Nicaragua is the region's best-kept secret

I don't like promoting. But concerning Nicaragua, I'm genuinely bothered that it remains so little known.

Three concrete things. Price first : Nicaragua costs 30 to 40 % less than Costa Rica for comparable services. That’s no small matter. A high-quality eco-lodge that would cost you $300 a night in Costa Rica will cost you $180 here. In an economy where long-haul travel is expensive, that makes all the difference. Authenticity, then Costa Rica receives 3.2 million tourists per year, Nicaragua barely 1.3. You still come across markets where no foreigner has passed in weeks. Children look at you, old ladies talk to you, you're offered coffee without being asked for anything. It's rare. And finally, the architecture Granada and León rival Antigua Guatemala—except they're much less photographed on Instagram.

Nicaragua doesn't sell itself. It's lived. That's precisely what makes it so precious. And that's also why I sometimes hesitate to talk about it too loudly.

When to go, without cheating

Dry season of December to April, it's total comfort. But it's also the time when prices go up, especially around Christmas and Easter, which is sacred in Nicaragua (not just folklore - many hotels close during these days for processions).

Green season of May to November. The period I prefer, by far, is November. The rains are ending, the country is a painful green to the eyes, and prices are still at their low-season rates. This is my view.

Specificity no one will tell you: the The Corn Islands have an inverse microclimate.. When it rains on the Pacific in July-August, it's dry there. For those who can only travel in mid-summer, this is an escape route.

How long, really

I say it honestly: Less than eight days, don't go. The time difference is significant (seven hours), so you need to recover from it, and the country encourages taking your time. In eight days, you can visit Granada, Ometepe, and a corner of the Pacific – this is our «Essential Nicaragua» itinerary. In twelve to fourteen days, you can include León and Masaya, and you can fly to the Corn Islands, another world. For those who want a regional combination, Nicaragua naturally pairs with neighboring Costa Rica – they share a border and have two completely different atmospheres.

How does Toucan compose your Nicaragua

Our approach remains the same as elsewhere. No catalog, hotels visited on-site, French-speaking contact reachable 24/7 by WhatsApp. For those who want to create their own itinerary in real-time, our platform Toucan Discovery Dynamics List hotel availability and prices.

To understand the regional logic, I also recommend rereading Our founding article on Panama — Travel codes between these countries are more similar than we think.

Nicaragua is not a prestigious destination. It's a destination of the heart. Those who have traveled there retain a much stronger attachment than for any country in the Central American Golden Triangle. That's all I can honestly say.

Nicaraguan, I love you!